Milky Way Over St. Michael’s Mount

Are there some places you would like to go to or things you would like to do, but haven’t because you want to do them with another adventurous person? One such experience I tried this summer was getting a photo of the Milky Way over St. Michael’s Mount in Cornwall, England.

St. Michael’s Mount at low tide.

St. Michael’s Mount is an island that can be reached at low tide by foot. There is a castle and medieval church on the island. The site is maintained by the National Trust. During the day time, one can walk over and see some of the rooms inside the castle. At high tide there are boats that can ferry you across. The St. Aubyn family live in the castle.

Tour

I would never never attempted to do this alone, even if I had stayed in Marazion, the Cornish town on the other side of the causeway. Instead I completed a day tour with Photograph West Cornwall. Ken Whalley took me to scenic spots on the Cornish coast by day, then later at night we attempted to get these shots at St. Michael’s Mount. Ken is a outstanding landscape photographer who leads tours in Cornwall in villages south of Port Isaac. He is knowledgeable about the time tables for tides, events in the sky, and weather. He informed me long before I arrived this may be a possibility if the sky cooperated. The added bonus was Ken and his wife treated me like an old friend.

If you are interested in seeing Cornwall south of Port Isaac through the eyes of a landscape photographer, book a tour with Ken Whalley and Photograph West Cornwall.

For more information look here: http://photographwestcornwall.com

To see some of his work, this is the Facebook page for his business: https://www.facebook.com/Photographwestcornwall/?eid=ARDnpqg1FH1Z_9FJl7n9hpMLWiY1rwqqq6cJbdlM_GAms6Yy_R9fC8WNOgHeg07My1ngT6Tow8kFVluQ&timeline_context_item_type=intro_card_work&timeline_context_item_source=100004050793544&fref=tag

Wayside Cross

Wayside (edge of road) crosses are one type of Christian Cross that could be erected in Medieval times (5th-15th century). What do you think was its purpose?

Locations

In England there are over 350 wayside crosses. They are mostly found in Southwest England in Cornwall and on Dartmor. They can also be found on the North Yorkshire Moors. Very few are found elsewhere. Other forms of Wayside crosses can be found in other European countries such as Germany and Ireland.

Function

One function of a wayside cross was to reinforce the Christian faith amongst those who traveled past the cross. It was meant to reassure the traveler. In addition, they were way markers. They helped mark the areas that were generally unmarked routes.

Boskenna Cross

This wayside cross is at the junction of B 3315 and Rectory Rd in Cornwall. It is near the Merry Maidens Stone Circle in Cornwall, England. The head of the Boskenna Cross is circular. On one side of the head is a cross. On the opposite side is a figure of Christ with his arms up stretched and his feet pointing outwards. Some other wayside markers in Cornwall are said to have rounded heads with a cross on one side and different carvings on the other side.

This side faces someone property. It has a cross clearly visible on it.
This is the side facing the road. It is said to have a carving of Jesus on it with his arms outstretched. If you able able to see it in person you can barely make it out.

Wayside crosses are unique to Europe and the type found in Cornwall seems to be unique to Cornwall. If you visit Cornwall, see if you can spot one of these ancient monuments that has stood the test of time.

Pub Signs-The Bucket of Blood

The Bucket of Blood Pub in the Hayle area of Cornwall.

Which pub in Cornwall most likely has a name that is not duplicated with any other pub in England? The Bucket of Blood is very unique. It is a pub in Hayle that is said to be haunted and there is an interesting story behind it.

It is said an inn has been on that site for hundreds of years. It had a well from which they drew water for the inn and to brew the beer, a dark ale. Cornwall has been known for its miners, sailors, fishermen and smugglers.

The story is the innkeeper went to draw water, but instead drew blood. Upon search of the well a corpse was found. It is said the identity was unknown.

They say at night footsteps can be heard on creaking floorboards. There have been reports of people seeing ghostly figures crossing the road and then disappearing.

They say during the reign of King George III the name of the Bucket of Blood was changed to the New Inn. That lasted for about 250 years. In the 1980s the owner changed the name back to its original name- the Bucket of Blood.

I asked locals where the well was. They pointed me out to a well across the street and around the corner. However, a person who worked at the pub said there is no longer access to it. It is under what is now the ladies restroom/loo.

This inn serves nice meals. They do not serve puddings/desserts. If you are in the Hayle area make a stop at the Bucket of Blood. Its worth the trip. Ghost sightings are not guaranteed.

Godrevy Lighthouse

Sometimes I like to tick off two boxes at once when I travel. When viewing wildlife it is also nice if the area you go to has a lovely view. If you are like me you may want to visit the area near Godrevy Lighthouse. Not only can you view seals, but you also have gorgeous views as well.

Godrevy Lighthouse is on Godrevy Island in the Atlantic Ocean off Cornwall, England. A stone reef stretches from Godrevy Island towards St. Ives. Many vessels shipwrecked it that area prior to the lighthouse being constructed in the 1850s.

Seal on Godrevy Island taken from the tour boat Little Mermaid.
Seals and Other Wildlife

There are a variety of animals to view in the area. Grey seals are around in the summer, however, the numbers increase in fall, and in winter you may see close to one hundred. The island and area boasts a variety of seabirds including pipits, oystercatchers, gulls, and cormorants. Occasionally a dolphin or basking shark may be viewed.

Seals swimming onto the rock. We were told the darker ones were young ones and the lighter ones were older ones.
Enjoying the sun
Godrevy Island and Lighthouse taken from the Little Mermaid tour boat.
Viewing

There is more than one way you can view the lighthouse. Godrevy Beach is run by the National Trust and they provide parking areas. Another way way you can view it is to board a tour boat from St. Ives. More than one company presently takes people around the island. I took the Little Mermaid from St. Ives and I also viewed the lighthouse from the National Trust property.

Close-up of the lighthouse from the tour boat.
A third way to get to Godrevy? We saw some paddle boarders make their way over to Godrevy. This paddle boarder took his dog. You can see a seal popping his head out of the water on the right. With the rocks around the island I am not sure I would recommend this.
Literary Ties
View of Godrevy Island and Lighthouse from St. Ives

It is said Godrevy Lighthouse was the inspiration for “To the Lighthouse” by Virginia Woolf. Woolf spent many summers in St. Ives. You can see Godrevy Lighthouse from there.

Filming Location

Godrevy appears to have been used as a filming location or backdrop for TV and film. Blue Juice, a 1995 British surfer film staring Catherine Zeta Jones and Ewan McGregor was shot there. It also appears the lighthouse may have been used as a location for the TV show Doc Martin in series 9 Episode 1. Pictures of a boat in the Hayle area with the characters Doc and PC Penhale aboard appeared online in April 2019. My tour guide, a local, said the rumor was Martin Clunes was flown out by helicopter to the lighthouse island to shoot scenes.

The coast of Cornwall is stunning and you really can’t go wrong visiting its many seaside villages and hotspots. By boat or by land this area is worth a stop.

Cornwall Day Tours

Are you planning to visit Cornwall, England? Would you like to go on a day tour with a knowledgeable local? If so, I highly recommend Cornwall Discovery.

Cornwall Discovery

Barry Pengelly owns and operates Cornwall Discovery. As his surname suggests, he was born and raised in Cornwall. His surname, Pengelly, comes from the Cornish language. According to Barry, Pen means top of the hill. Barry is a Cornish history buff.

Cornwall Discovery can pick you up for your tour anywhere in Cornwall. He drives a very comfortable Land Rover Discovery in which he is licensed to carry up to six passengers. According to Barry, he operates everyday and does his tours all year. Go by yourself or take along your friends.

Tours

Barry has a variety of tours listed on his website or he can cater the tour to what interests you. He can take you to filming locations in Cornwall. One tour he lists covers Doc Martin locations and towns in northern Cornwall. He lives outside of Port Isaac where Doc Martin is filmed. Barry was a driver for the actors on Poldark during filming, so he also is very knowledgeable about Poldark locations. He has one tour that covers Poldark filming locations. Visit his website to check out other tours he offers.

These are some of the mines on the Cornwall Coast used in the filming of the TV show, Poldark. This show aired in the U.S. on PBS.

I went along with Barry for two days. One day included some locations I asked specifically to see related to King Arthur and other locations worth seeing nearby. Another day, I just asked him to take me to some scenic Coastal towns. We went to St Ives, some Poldark locations, and a few other locations south of there along the coast that included the Minack Theatre and Mousehole. I was very happy with the locations he picked. Barry related some interesting historical information along the way. Cornish history is his passion.

St. Ives is one of many beautiful Cornish Coastal Towns. St. Ives is known as a haven for the arts. It has galleries including the Tate St Ives.

Will you be in Cornwall without a car? If you do have a car, would you just rather see all the best spots in Cornwall that only a local could show you? Then contact Barry at Cornwall Discovery.

Follow this link to see what Barry offers: http://www.cornwalldiscovery.co.uk

Tintagel

Are you familiar with the stories The Sword in the Stone or Excalibur? Have you ever read any of the King Arthur stories or watched any of the movies based on King Arthur? According to the legend, King Arthur was conceived in Tintagel. English Heritage is in charge of the Castle Ruins in Tintagel that are worth visiting and this village has a couple of spots that have served as filming locations for the British TV show Doc Martin.

History of Tintagel and the King Arthur Ties

Tintagel was first linked to King Arthur during the 12th century by Geoffrey of Monmouth who wrote a medieval history of kings titled The History of the Kings of Britain.

Statue of King Arthur on the top of the island that contains some of the ruins of a castle on the grounds.

Tintagel is known for its castle ruins. The ruins that are visible, were built around 1233 by Richard, first Earl of Cornwall. He was the second son of King John of England and brother to King Henry III of England. They say Richard may have built the castle to show his connections with Arthur and the ancient rulers of Cornwall.

Recent archaeological activity started in 2016. Archaeologists conducted excavations of the grounds and found other significant building ruins beneath that either belonged to a wealthy individual or possibly a ruler. They have over the years discovered pottery, glassware, containers that transported olive oil and wine, and luxury objects from distant places along the Meditteranean dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries, evidence that a wealthy person or ruler lived on the site. The time frame also fits into the time frame of the legendary King Arthur. Was King Arthur a real person or a legend?

Tintagel is a tourist town on the coast with souvenir shops, restaurants, accommodations, and it has the castle ruins. If you are driving, there are two car parks providing over 100 spaces on the road leading into the village (Fore Street or B3263). You need to purchase a ticket to enter the castle grounds. You can walk different paths on the grounds including crossing a footbridge over to an island. They are currently constructing a new footbridge and most of the grounds will not reopen until sometime in the summer of 2019. The new footbridge is supposed to make the site more accessible. Previously, when you crossed the foot bridge you had to then climb steep narrow steps until you got to a door. Check English Heritage’s website to see what you can access.

The door you entered at the top of the island. This was after you crossed the footbridge and walked up some steep, narrow steps. The new foot bridge will be completed some time in the summer of 2019.
Doc Martin Filming Locations

The TV Show Doc Martin has filmed at some locations in Tintagel. They have repeatedly used the Camelot Castle Hotel. According to Kate Kennedy, of Portwenn Online, the Camelot Castle Hotel was used in :

Season 1 Martin meeting with the board about getting a job

Season 5 When they went to a hotel looking for Mrs. Tishell

Season 6 Martin and Louisa’s wedding reception

Season 6 Martin and Aunt Ruth’s lunch

Season 7 Martin and Louisa’s dinner

Season 8 Martin’s meeting with the board about his blood phobia

The Camelot Castle Hotel in Tintagel as seen from the castle ruins.

The Camelot Castle Hotel opened in 1899. In their great hall on the first floor is a replica of the Round Table that hangs in Winchester, England. They have stunning coastal views from some of their rooms and a restaurant on the ground floor.

Another place in Tintagel that has been used as a Doc Martin filming location is the Church of St. Materiana. It is an Anglican Church near the cliffs south of Tintagel Castle. One way you can walk to it is you can follow the South West Coastal Path from Castle Road in Tintagel and follow the path south to the church. Another way is by walking via Vicarage Hill going south from the village. This road does not get a lot of traffic, so it is safe to walk on. This church was used in Season 8 Episode 1, according to Kate Kennedy, for PC Penhale’s wedding. Be careful of going off the footpaths and walking the grounds. There are some signs around warning to be aware off adders. Adders are a poisonous snake. The Church of St. Materiana was used for the outside shots only when they filmed PC Penhale’s wedding. The interior of the church in that episode was St. Endellion close to the village of Port Isaac.

St. Materiana, where PC Penhale’s wedding was to take place.
St. Materiana from another angle

If you are a Doc Martin Fan, check out Kate Kennedy’s website. It has a wealth of information for fans of the show and contains all things Doc Martin. You can access her site at : http://portwennonline.com .

How to Get There From Port Isaac

Tintagel is not far from Port Isaac. The easiest way to get there is to drive or take a taxi. It is officially 6 miles (I guess by how a bird flies), the distance via the coastal path is 9 miles, and by car it’s 10.4 miles. That 10 miles by car can take you more than 20 minutes. If driving, get a good Cornwall road map and stick to major roads. Don’t use Sat Nav/ GPS. GPS will lead you down two-way roads wide enough for one car. It is a strenuous hike on the coastal trail. It is actually labeled a challenging/ severe walk on some sites because the section between Port Isaac and Trebarwith is long and difficult with steep ascents and descents. There is a bus you can catch from Port Isaac to Tintagel, however, it is not direct, you have to switch buses, and it takes over an hour and a half one way. It departs from the Pea Pod in Port Isaac. The buses don’t make many trips per day either.

Whether you are interested in history, the King Arthur legend, or Tintagel’s role as a filming location for Doc Martin, Tintagel is a great spot to visit. It is another Cornish seaside village with stunning views.

Port Isaac

Have you ever viewed a TV show or movie and fallen in love with the location of where it was filmed? Have you ever wanted to plan a vacation around visiting that location, possibly getting a chance to see scenes filmed? Many people do just that with a TV show called Doc Martin.

Doc Martin is a British TV show that is filmed in Cornwall, England. In the United States the show airs on Acorn TV online and on some PBS stations. It airs in many other countries. Doc Martin is set in the fictional village of Portwenn. The actual village where many scenes are filmed is Port Isaac. Many fans of the show make the trip from the United States, Canada, Europe, as far away as Australia, and other places to visit the village, some in hopes to catch some filming of the series.

Doc Martin (Martin Clunes) exiting Mrs. Tishell’s Chemist shop during the filming of Season 8.

Doc Martin is starting its ninth season of filming in 2019. It has been filmed every other year in odd years. Filming takes place between the end of March up until around the third week of July. If one travels in Port Isaac during the time period filming takes place there is no guarantee they will see filming. They do not film on weekends or U.K. school holiday periods. In 2017 there was a three week period in June they did not film in the village. They also film indoors nearby and in other villages in Cornwall. I was fortunate to see a few scenes of season 8 filmed in 2017.

Sigorney Weaver (Season 8 filming)
Getting to Port Isaac From Heathrow by Train

Before you leave, get in touch with a local taxi company. Tell them what day you expect to need a ride. If you are going by plane, many fly into Heathrow in London. There are other options though that are closer, but may take additional flights. Within Heathrow you can take the Heathrow Express train to Paddington Station. From there you buy a train ticket to Bodmin Parkway. If you buy a ticket for a train with no changes, the trip takes less than 4 hours. Once on the train, email the taxi driver to let them know which train you are on, so they can be there waiting for you at Bodmin station. From there they can get you to Port Isaac. All taxis waiting at Bodmin are usually pre-arranged rides.

The Village

The streets are very narrow and steep. It would be a challenge for people with health or walking issues. If you plan to visit, wear comfortable shoes.

Know ahead of time that cell service is spotty at best. You can get a signal /wifi inside some of the restaurants such as the Slipway down near the harbor/platt. I found you could get a signal near the Co-Op. Oddly, when I climbed the sea wall, I was able to get service.

Port Isaac from the Coastal Path
Where to Stay

Since a large percentage of the houses are rentals, there are many options in the village. During filming there may be less options. On the lower price end inside the village is The Gallery. If you will have a vehicle with you, there are many options outside the village in other towns and villages. Path’s End is also an option on the lower end as well as a hostel in Tintagel. I reserved accommodations through Booking.com, however, I have friends who reserved cottages through John Bray Cornish Holidays and were quite happy with their experience.

Parking

I recommend parking in one of the lots. There is larger lot at the top of the hill at the edge of the village before you reach the Co-Op and one further down the hill after you turn to go towards Port Gaverne. It is on the left side of the road (sea side). The streets within the village are narrow and not wide enough for two-way traffic in spots. Some accommodations may provide parking such as the Old School House, however, if they are filming exterior scenes for the school you may be asked to park elsewhere. Interior school shots are filmed in another town.

Where to Eat

Port Isaac is a small village, but it has some nice food options. I was happy with every meal I ate during my stay. Since Port Isaac is a fishing village, some restaurants carry fresh catch of the day. There is a Co-Op at the top of the hill. It is a small convenience grocer with a cash machine/ ATM inside. You can find ATMs in larger villages/towns nearby such as Wadebridge, Bodmin, and St. Ives. If you visit between June-August you may need a reservation at some places for dinner. I found some were booked for the night in July. Many restaurants have vegan or vegetarian and gluten-free options. Some establishments that include gluten-free options are: Angry Anchovy (pizza), Nicky B’s Pasty Shop, The Chapel Cafe, the Golden Lion, the Old School Hotel, and the Mote. I ate at all of these locations and can vouch for them. In addition the Krab Pot advertises that they have gluten-free options. There is also a pub in Port Gaverne a short walk from Port Isaac.

Recreation from Port Isaac

There are a few recreational options from Port Isaac. Besides just enjoying the gorgeous views, exploring the tidal pools and swimming, another option is hiking the coastal path which cuts through Port Isaac. However, I do not recommend hiking the coastal path if you have health issues or knee, ankle, or foot issues. It is a strenuous hike. I will mention more about this in another post.

Another option is the walking tour inside Port Isaac. It covers some of the filming locations within the village. You can buy tickets for it at May Contain Nuts. The tour also leaves from there.

Additionally, check out the dates Fishermen’s Friends will perform in Port Isaac. If you are lucky, they will have a concert date in Port Isaac while you are there. If it is not raining, they perform on the platt.

Fishermen’s Friends performing on the platt
Filming Etiquette

If you are lucky enough to visit when they are filming in the village, be sure to follow directions. They crew tells you where you can stand so you are out of the shot. They let you stand closer when they are rehearsing, but may ask you to move back when they are actually filming. They also ask you not to make noise or take photos when they are rolling as most people’s cameras make noise when taking photos. Listen quietly, otherwise you may interfere with their work.

This was when they were filming at the Chemists. On the right people are sitting under the awning of the Slipway as crowds in the middle left watch on the street.

When they are filming at Mrs. Tishell’s Chemist shop, you may be allowed to watch from the outdoor seating area of The Slipway restaurant if that is not in the background of the shot. Keep in mind, the Slipway is a business. If you are going to sit there, order food and drinks. If you are going to stay a while, keep ordering, otherwise you are hurting their business by taking up spots paying customers could occupy. You may hear tipping is not the same in England as it is in the U.S. I would advise tipping at the Slipway, if you are taking up space.

Whether you travel to Port Isaac during Doc Martin filming or not, it is a great little seaside village to visit.